flat tire JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Workshop Manual

VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER DECODING CHART
POSITION INTERPRETATION CODE = DESCRIPTION
1 Country of Origin 1 = United States
2 Make J = Jeep
3 Vehicle Type 4 = MPV W/O Side Airbags.
8 = MPV With Side Airbags.
4 Gross Vehicle Weight Rating F = 4001 - 5000 lbs.
G = 5001 - 6000 lbs.
5 Vehicle Line K = Liberty 4X2 (LHD)
L = Liberty 4X4 (LHD)
M = Cherokee 4X4 (RHD)
6 Series 3 = Liberty Renegade
4 = Liberty Sport/Cherokee Sport
5 = Liberty Limited/Cherokee Limited
7 Body Style 8 = Sport Utility - 4 Door
8 Engine K = 3.7L 6 cyl MPI Gasoline
1 = 2.4L 4 cyl MPI Gasoline
7 = 2.5L 4 cyl Diesel
9 Check Digit 0 through 9 or X
10 Model Year 2=2002
11 Assembly Plant W = Toledo North Assembly Plant
12 thru 17 Vehicle Build Sequence
VEHICLE SAFETY
CERTIFICATION LABEL
DESCRIPTION
A vehicle safety certification label (Fig. 6) is
attached to every DaimlerChrysler Corporation vehi-
cle. The label certifies that the vehicle conforms to all
applicable Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.
The label also lists:
²Month and year of vehicle manufacture.
²Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The gross
front and rear axle weight ratings (GAWR's) arebased on a minimum rim size and maximum cold tire
inflation pressure.
²Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).
²Type of vehicle.
²Bar code.
²Month, Day and Hour (MDH) of final assembly.
²Paint and Trim codes.
²Country of origin.
The label is located above the door hinge on the
driver-side A-pillar.
Fig. 6 Vehicle Safety Certification LabelÐTypical
KJINTRODUCTION 9
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER (Continued)

(5) Install the hub/bearing. (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN-
SION/FRONT/HUB / BEARING - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install the axle shaft nut. Tighten the nut to
135 N´m (96 ft.lbs.).(if equipped with four wheel
drive).
(7) Install the wheel speed sensor. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/ELECTRICAL/FRONT WHEEL SPEED
SENSOR - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the disc brake rotor. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the caliper adapter. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(10) Install the tire and wheel assembly. (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(11) Perform the set toe procedure (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
LOWER BALL JOINT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - LOWER BALL
JOINT
(1) Raise the vehicle on a drive-on hoist.
NOTE: If a drive-on hoist is not available, use
wooden blocks with jack stands to support the
lower control arm in the ball joint area. Place the
jack stands appropriately and lower the hoist plac-
ing weight on the lower control arm. The lower con-
trol arms should now be supporting the vehicle
weight.
(2) With the use of jack stands, lift the front end
off the hoist and position wooden blocks underneath
both lower control arms supporting the vehicles
weight.
(3) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(4) Attach a dial indicator to the base of the lower
control arm and align the dial indicator's contact
point with the direction of the stud axis, touch the
machined flat on the knuckle and zero the dial indi-
cator. (Fig. 2)
NOTE: Use care when applying the load to the
knuckle, so the parts are not damaged using care
not to tear the boot.
(5) From the front of the vehicle, insert a pry bar
to get it rested on the lower control arm and use
lever principle to push the knuckle up until the arm
of the dial indicator no longer moves.(6) Record the ball joint movement on each side of
the vehicle. The end play is acceptable with no more
than 1.5mm of end play back to back.LOWER CONTROL ARM
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the lower clevis bracket bolt at the
lower control arm.
(4) Remove the stabilizer link bolt at the lower
control arm.
(5) Remove the lower ball joint nut.
(6) Separate the lower ball joint from the lower
control arm using tool C-4150A.
NOTE: Marking the lower control arm pivot bolts
front and rear will aid in the assembly procedure.
(7) Mark the lower control arm pivot bolts front
and rear.
(8) Remove the front cam/pivot bolt. (Fig. 3)
(9) Remove the rear cam/pivot bolt. (Fig. 3)
(10) Remove the lower control arm from the vehi-
cle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the lower control arm to the vehicle.
(2) Install the rear cam/pivot bolt.
(3) Install the front cam/pivot bolt.
(4) Install the lower ball joint nut. Tighten the nut
to 81 N´m (60 ft.lbs.)
Fig. 2 SUSPENSION IN THE CURB POSITION
1-PRYBAR
2 - BALL JOINT
3 - DIAL INDICATOR
4 - WOODEN BLOCK OR SUPPORT
5 - CLAMP
2 - 10 FRONTKJ
KNUCKLE (Continued)

(10) Start the engine and re-check for vibration. If
there is little or no change in vibration, move the
clamp to one of the other three positions. Repeat the
vibration test.
(11) If there is no difference in vibration at the
other positions, the source of the vibration may not
be propeller shaft.
(12) If the vibration decreased, install a second
clamp (Fig. 2) and repeat the test.
(13) If the additional clamp causes an additional
vibration, separate the clamps (1/4 inch above and
below the mark). Repeat the vibration test (Fig. 3).
(14) Increase distance between the clamp screws
and repeat the test until the amount of vibration is
at the lowest level. Bend the slack end of the clamps
so the screws will not loosen.
(15) If the vibration remains unacceptable, apply
the same steps to the front end of the propeller shaft.
(16) Install the wheel and tires. Lower the vehicle.RUNOUT
(1) Remove dirt, rust, paint and undercoating from
the propeller shaft surface where the dial indicator
will contact the shaft.
(2) The dial indicator must be installed perpendic-
ular to the shaft surface.
(3) Measure runout at the center and ends of the
shaft sufficiently far away from weld areas to ensure
that the effects of the weld process will not enter into
the measurements.
(4) Refer to Runout Specifications chart.
(5) If the propeller shaft runout is out of specifica-
tion, remove the propeller shaft, index the shaft 180É,
and re-install the propeller shaft. Measure shaft
runout again.
(6) If the propeller shaft runout is now within
specifications, mark the shaft and yokes for proper
orientation.
(7) If the propeller shaft runout is not within spec-
ifications, verify that the runout of the transmission/
transfer case and axle are within specifications.
Correct as necessary and re-measure propeller shaft
runout.
(8) Replace the propeller shaft if the runout still
exceeds the limits.
RUNOUT SPECIFICATIONS
Front of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
Center of Shaft 0.025 in. (0.63 mm)
Rear of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
note:
Measure front/rear runout approximately 3 inches (76
mm) from the weld seam at each end of the shaft
tube for tube lengths over 30 inches. For tube lengths
under 30 inches, the maximum allowed runout is
0.020 in. (0.50 mm) for the full length of the tube.
STANDARD PROCEDURES - PROPELLER
SHAFT ANGLE
The procedure applies to both the front propeller
shafts and the rear propeller shaft. To obtain the
front (output) angle on the C/V front propeller shaft,
the inclinometer is placed on the machined ring of
the pinion flange. To obtain the propeller shaft angle
measurement on the C/V front propeller shaft, the
inclinometer is placed on the propeller shaft tube.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle at the axles as
level as possible. Allow the wheels and propeller
shaft to turn.
(2) Remove any external bearing snap rings from
universal joint if equipped, so the inclinometer base
will sits flat.
Fig. 2 TWO CLAMPS AT SAME POSITION
Fig. 3 CLAMPS SEPARATED
1 - ó INCH
KJPROPELLER SHAFT 3 - 3
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)

AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL
(1) Place transmission in neutral and raise and
support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove brake drum.
(4) Remove axle retainer plate nuts from the rear
of the axle flange.
(5) Pull axle shaft from the axle with Slide Ham-
mer 7420 and Adapter 6790. Mount the adapter to
the axle with lug nuts.
NOTE: It is normal that the axle bearing race is
loose in the axle tube.
INSTALLATION
(1) Insall axle into the axle tube with the flat area
of the retainer plate upward.
(2) Insert retaining plate studs into the brake
backing plate and axle tube flange.
(3) Install retainer nuts and tighten to 47-75 N´m
(35-55 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the brake drum.
(5) Install wheel and tire.
(6) Check and fill the differential with gear lubri-
cant.
(7) Lower vehicle.
PILOT STUDS C-3288-B
PULLER 6790
DIAL INDICATOR C-3339
INSTALLER C-3718
KJREAR AXLE - 198RBI 3 - 65
REAR AXLE - 198RBI (Continued)

CAUTION: Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol,
motor oil, transmission fluid, or any fluid containing
mineral oil to clean the system components. These
fluids damage rubber cups and seals. Use only
fresh brake fluid or Mopar brake cleaner to clean or
flush brake system components. These are the only
cleaning materials recommended. If system contam-
ination is suspected, check the fluid for dirt, discol-
oration, or separation into distinct layers. Also
check the reservoir cap seal for distortion. Drain
and flush the system with new brake fluid if con-
tamination is suspected.
CAUTION: Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent
quality fluid meeting SAE/DOT standards J1703 and
DOT 3. Brake fluid must be clean and free of con-
taminants. Use fresh fluid from sealed containers
only to ensure proper antilock component opera-
tion.
CAUTION: Use Mopar multi-mileage or high temper-
ature grease to lubricate caliper slide surfaces,
drum brake pivot pins, and shoe contact points on
the backing plates. Use multi-mileage grease or GE
661 or Dow 111 silicone grease on caliper slide pins
to ensure proper operation.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake shoes,
calipers, wheel cylinders, brake drums, rotors, brake
lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking brake
components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causesof chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
²Master Cylinder
²Combination Valve
²Right Rear Wheel
²Left Rear Wheel
²Right Front Wheel
²Left Front Wheel
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Use
adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

INSPECTION
Inspect the cylinder bore. Light discoloration and
dark stains in the bore are normal and will not
impair cylinder operation.
The cylinder bore can be lightly polished but only
with crocus cloth. Replace the cylinder if the bore is
scored, pitted or heavily corroded. Honing the bore to
restore the surface is not recommended.
Inspect the cylinder pistons. The piston surfaces
should be smooth and free of scratches, scoring and
corrosion. Replace the pistons if worn, scored, or cor-
roded. Do not attempt to restore the surface by sand-
ing or polishing.Discard the old piston cups and the spring and
expander. These parts are not reusable. The original
dust boots may be reused but only if they are in good
condition.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Lubricate wheel cylinder bore, pistons, piston
cups and spring and expander with clean brake fluid.
(2) Install first piston in cylinder bore. Then
install first cup in bore and against piston.Be sure
lip of piston cup is facing inward (toward
spring and expander) and flat side is against
piston.
(3) Install spring and expander followed by
remaining piston cup and piston.
(4) Install boots on each end of cylinder and insert
push rods in boots.
(5) Install cylinder bleed screw.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install cylinder mounting bolts and tighten to
20 N´m (15 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 44).
(2) Connect brake line to cylinder and tighten to
14 N´m (124 in. lbs.).
(3) Install the brake shoe return springs.
(4) Remove the brake pedal prop rod.
(5) Install the brake drum.
(6) Install the wheel and tire assembly (Refer to 22
- TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(7) Bleed base brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
PARKING BRAKE
DESCRIPTION
The parking brake is a hand lever and cable oper-
ated system used to apply the rear brakes.
OPERATION
A hand operated lever in the passenger compart-
ment is the main application device. The front cable
is connected between the hand lever and the rear
cables with an equalizer.
The rear cables are connected to the actuating
lever on each primary brake shoe. The levers are
attached to the brake shoes by a pin either pressed
into, or welded to the lever. A clip is used to secure
the pin in the brake shoe. The pin allows each lever
to pivot independently of the brake shoe.
To apply the parking brakes, the hand lever is
pulled upward. This pulls the rear brake shoe actu-
ating levers forward, by means tensioner and cables.
As the actuating lever is pulled forward, the parking
brake strut (which is connected to both shoes), exerts
Fig. 44 WHEEL CYLINDER
1 - WHEEL CYLINDER
2 - SUPPORT PLATE
Fig. 45 Wheel Cylinder Components±Typical
1 - SPRING
2 - CYLINDER
3 - PISTON CLIP
4 - BOOT
5 - PUSH ROD
6 - PISTON
7 - BLEED SCREW
8 - CUP EXPANDERS
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 29
WHEEL CYLINDERS (Continued)

FRONT FOG LAMP UNIT
REMOVAL
(1) Turn the front wheels full lock in the direction
of the fog lamp bulb that is to be changed.
(2) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(3) Reach into the front wheel opening to unsnap
and lift the cover over the access hole at the front of
the front wheelhouse splash shield (Fig. 14).
(4) Reach through the access hole to remove the
three screws that secure the front fog lamp unit to
the front bumper fascia.
(5) From the front of the vehicle, pull the front fog
lamp unit out of the front bumper fascia far enough
to access and disconnect the wire harness connector
for the front fog lamp unit from the lamp socket con-
nector receptacle (Fig. 15).
(6) Remove the front fog lamp unit from the front
bumper fascia.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the front fog lamp unit to the front
bumper fascia.
(2) Reconnect the wire harness connector for the
front fog lamp to the lamp socket connector recepta-
cle (Fig. 15).
(3) Position the front fog lamp unit into the front
bumper fascia.
(4) Reach into the front wheel opening and
through the access hole to install and tighten the
three screws that secure the front fog lamp unithousing to the front bumper fascia (Fig. 14). Tighten
the screws to 3 N´m (25 in. lbs.).
(5) Lower and snap shut the cover over the access
hole at the front of the front wheelhouse splash
shield.
(6) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
(7) Confirm proper front fog lamp unit alignment.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING -
EXTERIOR/FRONT FOG LAMP UNIT - ADJUST-
MENTS).
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - FRONT FOG LAMP UNIT
VEHICLE PREPARATION FOR FOG LAMP ALIGNMENT
(1) Repair or replace any faulty or damaged com-
ponents that could hinder proper lamp alignment.
(2) Verify proper tire inflation.
(3) Clean the front fog lamp lenses.
(4) Verify that the cargo area is not heavily loaded.
(5) The fuel tank should be Full. Add 2.94 kilo-
grams (6.5 pounds) of weight over the fuel tank for
each estimated gallon of missing fuel.
FOG LAMP ALIGNMENT
Prepare an alignment screen as illustrated. A prop-
erly aligned front fog lamp will project a pattern on
the alignment screen 100 millimeters (4 inches)
below the fog lamp centerline and straight ahead of
the lamp.
Fig. 14 Front Fog Lamp Unit Remove/Install
1 - FRONT FOG LAMP UNIT
2 - SCREW (3)
3 - FRONT WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD
4 - FRONT BUMPER FASCIA
5 - ACCESS HOLE
Fig. 15 Front Fog Lamp Unit
1 - ADJUSTING SCREW
2 - MOUNTING BRACKET
3 - HOUSING
4 - SOCKET & BULB
5 - LENS
KJLAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR 8L - 25

enough to disengage the locator tab on the outboard
side of the unit (Fig. 41) or (Fig. 42) from the engage-
ment slot in the outboard edge of the reinforcement.
(5) Pull the headlamp unit away from the grille
opening reinforcement far enough to disconnect the
wire harness connectors from the headlamp bulbsocket (North America), the headlamp bulb base
(Rest-Of-World), the front position lamp socket (if
equipped), and the headlamp leveling motor (if
equipped).
(6) Remove the headlamp unit from the grille
opening reinforcement.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the headlamp unit to the grille open-
ing reinforcement.
(2) Reconnect the wire harness connectors to the
headlamp bulb socket (North America), the headlamp
bulb base (Rest-Of-World), the front position lamp
socket (if equipped), and the headlamp leveling motor
(if equipped) (Fig. 41) or (Fig. 42).
(3) Engage the locator tab on the outboard side of
the headlamp unit into the engagement slot in the
outboard edge of the grille opening reinforcement.
(4) Align the two mounting tabs on the inboard
side of the headlamp unit housing to the mounting
holes in the grille opening reinforcement (Fig. 40).
(5) Install and tighten the two screws that secure
the mounting tabs on the inboard side of the head-
lamp unit housing to the grille opening reinforce-
ment. Tighten the screws to 3 N´m (30 in. lbs.).
(6) Reinstall the grille panel onto the grille open-
ing reinforcement. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/
GRILLE - INSTALLATION).
(7) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
(8) Confirm proper headlamp unit alignment.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING -
EXTERIOR/HEADLAMP UNIT - ADJUSTMENTS).
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - HEADLAMP UNIT
VEHICLE PREPARATION FOR HEADLAMP ALIGNMENT
(1) Verify headlamp dimmer (multi-function)
switch and high beam indicator operation.
(2) If the vehicle is equipped with headlamp level-
ing, be certain that the headlamp leveling switch is
in the ª0º position.
(3) Repair or replace any faulty or damaged com-
ponents that could hinder proper lamp alignment.
(4) Verify proper tire inflation.
(5) Clean headlamp lenses.
(6) Verify that cargo area is not heavily loaded.
(7) The fuel tank should be Full. Add 2.94 kilo-
grams (6.5 pounds) of weight over the fuel tank for
each estimated gallon of missing fuel.
HEADLAMP ALIGNMENT SCREEN PREPARATION
Prepare an alignment screen as illustrated.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface perpen-
dicular to a flat wall 7.62 meters (25 feet) away from
Fig. 41 Headlamp Unit - North America
1 - MOUNTING TAB (2)
2 - ADJUSTING SCREW
3 - LOCK RING
4 - HOUSING
5 - LOCATOR TAB
6 - SOCKET & BULB
Fig. 42 Headlamp Unit - Rest-Of-World
1 - LEVELING MOTOR (IF EQUIPPED)
2 - BOOT SEAL
3 - ADJUSTING SCREW
4 - LOCATOR TAB
5 - HOUSING
6 - FRONT POSITION LAMP SOCKET & BULB
7 - HEADLAMP BULB
8 - MOUNTING TAB (2)
8L - 42 LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIORKJ
HEADLAMP UNIT (Continued)

(5) From the front of the vehicle, pull the front fog
lamp unit out of the front bumper fascia far enough
to access and disconnect the wire harness connector
for the front fog lamp unit from the lamp socket con-
nector receptacle (Fig. 15).
(6) Remove the front fog lamp unit from the front
bumper fascia.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the front fog lamp unit to the front
bumper fascia.
(2) Reconnect the wire harness connector for the
front fog lamp to the lamp socket connector recepta-
cle (Fig. 15).
(3) Position the front fog lamp unit into the front
bumper fascia.
(4) Reach into the front wheel opening and
through the access hole to install and tighten the
three screws that secure the front fog lamp unit
housing to the front bumper fascia (Fig. 14). Tighten
the screws to 3 N´m (25 in. lbs.).
(5) Lower and snap shut the cover over the access
hole at the front of the front wheelhouse splash
shield.
(6) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
(7) Confirm proper front fog lamp unit alignment.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING -
EXTERIOR/FRONT FOG LAMP UNIT - ADJUST-
MENTS).
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - FRONT FOG LAMP UNIT
VEHICLE PREPARATION FOR FOG LAMP ALIGNMENT
(1) Repair or replace any faulty or damaged com-
ponents that could hinder proper lamp alignment.
(2) Verify proper tire inflation.
(3) Clean the front fog lamp lenses.
(4) Verify that the cargo area is not heavily loaded.
(5) The fuel tank should be Full. Add 2.94 kilo-
grams (6.5 pounds) of weight over the fuel tank for
each estimated gallon of missing fuel.
FOG LAMP ALIGNMENT
Prepare an alignment screen as illustrated. A prop-
erly aligned front fog lamp will project a pattern on
the alignment screen 100 millimeters (4 inches)
below the fog lamp centerline and straight ahead of
the lamp.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface perpen-
dicular to a flat wall 7.62 meters (25 feet) away from
the front of the front fog lamp lens (Fig. 16). If nec-
essary, tape a line on the floor 7.62 meters (25 feet)
away from and parallel to the wall.
(2) Measure up on the wall 1.27 meters (5 feet)
from the floor and tape a vertical line on the align-
ment screen at the centerline of the vehicle. Sight
along the centerline of the vehicle (from the rear of
the vehicle forward) to verify the accuracy of the cen-
terline placement.
Fig. 14 Front Fog Lamp Unit Remove/Install
1 - FRONT FOG LAMP UNIT
2 - SCREW (3)
3 - FRONT WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD
4 - FRONT BUMPER FASCIA
5 - ACCESS HOLE
Fig. 15 Front Fog Lamp Unit
1 - ADJUSTING SCREW
2 - MOUNTING BRACKET
3 - HOUSING
4 - SOCKET & BULB
5 - LENS
KJLAMPS8Ls-25
FRONT FOG LAMP UNIT (Continued)